After having dedicated an in-depth analysis to the PDOs of Soave, Monte Veronese, and Lessini Durello it is time to delve into Santorini PDO and its connections with the volcanic soil.
SANTORINI PDO
In Greece, the island of Santorini represents the remains of a volcano that violently erupted in 1625 B.C., and whose devastating effects caused the fall of the Minoan civilization. Geologically speaking, the island is made up of pyroclastic rocks.
More than 50 grape varieties have been found growing on the volcanic soil of Santorini at the beginning of the 20th century. Of these, Assyrtiko is one of the best white grape varieties of the Mediterranean and it covers more than 75% of Santorini terroir. Assyrtiko is resistant to dry conditions, downy mildew and botrytis, and it adapts well in different soils and climates. It has the ability of retaining high levels of acidity while ripening, which is why it can produce many different types of wines, including full-bodied dry whites, long-aged in steel tanks or in oak barrels, straw wines and even sparkling ones. It must be noted that in the vineyards of Santorini, this variety remains in its original form with its own roots, which means that it has no rootstock.
Other grape varieties that are currently grown in Santorini include the white varieties of Aidani and Athiri and the reds, Mavrotragano and Mandilaria.
Aidani is a rich, aromatic grape variety with large clusters of medium to small berries, used mainly for the production of Vinsanto. Athiri is a delicate grape with small to medium berries, endowed with a soft and sweet pulp and medium acidity. It is used mainly for the production of dry white wines. Mandilaria is a late ripening grape, very rich in anthocyanins, with a very deep red color and medium alcohol levels. It is cultivated throughout the Aegean and is used in blends to strengthen the color of red wines. Mavrotragano, which means, “black and crunchy”, is a very promising red grape that produces wines with characteristic aromatic notes of red fruits and crisp acidity.
The Santorini PDO appellation was established in 1971. It includes dry and oak aged white wines, as well as naturally sweet wines. The dry whites need to have at least 75% Assyrtiko (although most wineries use 100% Assyrtiko in their Santorini PDO wines) and the rest may be a 25% blend of Aidani and Athiri. Since 2002, the Santorini PDO has also included Vinsanto, a naturally sweet wine produced exclusively in Santorini. Vinsanto contains at least 51% Assyrtiko and the remaining 49% comes from Athiri, Aidani and other local white grape varieties cultivated in Santorini. Because of Assyrtiko’s high level of acidity, Santorini Vinsanto wines are full-bodied but, at the same time, they are not intensely sweet unlike other dessert wines.
Another traditional term that can be seen on a Santorini PDO label is Nykteri, meaning, “wine of the night”, since, in the past, grapes used to be pressed during the night. Today, Nykteri is reserved for a Santorini PDO with at least 13.5% of alcohol content and that has been aged for at least 3 months in oak barrels.
According to regulation, Santorini PDOs can also bear the following description:
- Reserve: used for dry white wines that have been aged for at least 12 months, of which 6 months in oak barrels and 3 months in bottle
- Grande Reserve: used for dry white wines that have been aged for at least 24 months, of which 12 months in oak barrels and 6 months in bottle
The Union of Santorini Cooperatives, SantoWines was founded in 1947. Today, it is the largest organization on the island representing all growers, with 1,200 active members. SantoWines is committed to safeguarding the local traditional agriculture, with the aim of producing the highest quality Santorini Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) wines and other agricultural products as well as promoting sustainable agricultural development. The Union of Santorini Cooperatives has been created in order to safeguard the interest of local growers. This purpose continues until today. Its entrepreneurial activity, on behalf of all the farmers of the island, is based on transparency and respect. It supports the increased growth of the local community and the sustainable agricultural development of Santorini, while offering better trade conditions and ensuring the rights of the producers and workers.
Santorini vineyards include 1,200 hectares spread throughout the island. In a normal year, the total grape production (white and red) can reach up to 3500 tons, which produces approximately 2,275,000 liters of wine, for an average annual production of 3.3 million bottles of Santorini PDO wine. It should be noted that in the last 5 years (2016-2020) the annual total grape production decreased by 30 – 40% due to unfavorable weather conditions and lack of rainfall.
